Categories
Wexford

Wexford

Some 6 or 7 years ago, Claire and I decided to get out of Durham for 4th of July and go somewhere different to watch fireworks. After a quick run through the local papers and websites, we decided on Butner, about 20 miles or so north. A town more famous for its variety of prison facilities, including the federally run minimum security establishment that housed Bernie Madoff, among others.

We quickly found the lake where the fireworks were supposed to be held, but we were practically the only people there. We got directions to a different lake. Same story. After a couple of hours and a glorious sunset, we went home, eventually to learn that Butner’s fireworks display had been held the weekend before. That’s forgivable on those occasions when July 4th falls on a Tuesday or a Wednesday, but not when it’s already on the weekend. Butner quickly became a running joke in our household, and then a simple punchline that needed to introduction. We’d just look at one another and say, “Butner!” without any obvious prompt. Always funny.

Wexford kinda filled that niche for us in Ireland, for a different reason. We’ve planned numerous trips to Wexford on our various visits, but somehow none of them ever came off. For our anniversary this past weekend we talked about trying again, but had to hold off till the last minute because we’re still waiting on the arrival of our main shipment of goods from the states. I expect every morning to receive a call from the shipping company to arrange a time for delivery that day, and every morning so far I’ve been disappointed. So Thursday night we cashed in a Hotels.com voucher and booked a room at the Crown Quarter on Wexford’s main quay for Friday night. A second night was unavailable, so we planned a busy day Saturday, and figured on catching the latest bus back to Youghal through Waterford.

Wexford Harbor

When we checked in the woman at the desk warned us that there’s a disco on the ground floor on Friday nights, and we might get some of the bass coming through the floor, but that it would end by 12:30.

Pro tip: The disco at the Crown Quarter on the weekend runs right up to the legal 1 am limit, and is outside in the courtyard, where the sound carries extremely well into the rooms. Possibly even the best seat in the house. On the plus side, we heard both Come On Eileen and the Weezer cover of Toto’s Africa. So, a successful mini-vacation on that front.

Waterford itself is a quite lively place, lots of pedestrian activity along the narrow Viking era streets that make up the commercial district. Outdoor dining options everywhere, from cafes to white linen restaurants. We had dinner at the Thomas Moore Tavern where I ate some of the best mussels I’ve ever had, and Claire enjoyed the daily special of a local cod and spinach fritter with a beetroot carpaccio, which even I was able to take a bite of, and I despise beets. Even with appetisers, drinks, and dessert, the bill was only €80. We also had coffee and scones at Franks Place, and a quick lunch while waiting for the bus at Mi Asian street food.

The old church
One of several castles

Our big excursion for the day was the Irish National Heritage Park, a 100 acre site about 10 minutes out of town by bus. The walking tour of the park takes you through the various stages of Irish habitation, from the Neo-lithic era through the Norman settlements of about 900 years ago. Relatively educational, and not very strenuous. I confess I wasn’t paying attention to wheelchair accessibility. The park’s website states “The woods, paths and trails that lead through The Irish National Heritage Park are maintained as close to their natural state as possible, in keeping with the landscape as it would have been historically. Surfaces are therefore uneven and unpaved in parts. The installations and reconstructions themselves, are designed to reflect the actual experience of ancient and historical buildings. Care should be taken when accessing some of the low dwellings, the Ringfort stairways and all steps.”

Dolmen at the Heritage Park
Viking graffiti (a recreation)
Viking long boat

The funniest part of our trip happened on the bus back, between Waterford and Dungarvan. A group of four teenage boys boarded, possibly at the Waterford Tech stop, possibly the one after. They sat in the back and were fairly loud. But shortly before disembarking at Crotty’s Pub stop outside Dungarvan to meet their girlfriends, they decided that a contest over who could say the word “penis” the loudest was going to be the most important thing ever. An utterly hilarious 5 minutes that I may never forget.

Claire and I agreed that we were glad not to have visited Wexford prior to our choice of settling in Youghal, because it would have been a tempting alternative. But living so far away from the bigger city of Cork, not to mention the likelihood of not having an ocean view, would have been second best. But we’ll definitely be back. But not to the Crown Quarter.

Categories
Youghal

Careful Now!

We live in a town of about 8500 people. After 6 months here, i don’t think it’s unfair to call it sleepy. Paddy’s Day is a big deal, and Ironman weekend brought out the crowds, but you could still find a seat at most restaurants, and the streets were quiet by 1 am.

If there’s any major controversy in Youghal, it’s the grumbling from some quarters about the new greenway going in over the old railroad. there are plenty of people who think reworking the railroad and bringing Youghal into Cork City’s commuter orbit (it’s roughly 30 miles away) makes more sense than a bike/ped greenway to Midleton. But the greenway’s been approved and funded and work has already started, so it’s unlikely that the train is going to happen any time soon. And it will have to find a new route anyway.

Second issue that i’ve seen has been dog poop. Ireland in general is probably 30 years behind the US in acculturating dog owners to pick up after their dogs, especially on urban sidewalks, but also on the several hiking trails around town and along the beaches. There are signs in strategic areas warning dog owners that they face a fine up to €300 for not picking up after their dog. But in the entirety of County Cork, which stretches about 100 miles to the west and is home to over half a million people, only 3 fines were levied in all of 2021. I’ve met our representative on the Cork County Council (who is an independent and quite visible around town during many social events) and shared a few thoughts on the issue. She seemed to like one of my ideas, so we’ll see if things change up next year or not.

Which makes this “protest truck” all the more interesting.

From what i gather, the coffee shop off to the right of the frame has been putting a few tables and chairs out in the street, and taking a couple of parking spaces in the process. I’m pretty sure they close at 4 pm. The only time i’ve seen musicians there was during Ironman, where a guitar/clarinet duo set up a few meters beyond where the two people are sitting in the frame.

The truck owner seems particularly riled by this, though. And i’m on tenterhooks waiting to see just what is going to happen over the coming weeks.

Stay tuned!

Categories
Durham Moving Youghal

Reunited …

And it feels so good

In September of 1976 i dropped out of college and spent the next 2 1/2 years traveling around the US, working a series of menial jobs on assembly lines, in tourist hotels, and tending other people’s yards. Like many people in their early 20s, i had the time of my life, formed the basic tenets that would see me through to my dotage, and acquired a good number of stories that, as the telling has gotten refined over the years, still generate laughs and head shakes, even from people who have heard them a few times. Did i brush up against my mortality on occasion? Well, come to think of it …

The first town i ended up having an extended stay was Phoenix Arizona. (How and why Phoenix is an amusing tale in its own right, but irrelevant here.) I think we arrived very early November. One of my first memories there is watching election returns on the cheap TV in the fleabag hotel we were staying in on East Van Buren across the street from the prison/mental hospital complex. Looking at Google Maps, i believe it is now called the Paradise Motel, and looks to be slightly more upscale than 46 years ago.

We (my college roommate and traveling companion) had used a Super 8 movie camera as collateral on the room for 2 weeks until we could find jobs and scrounge up some cash. After we’d been there about a month, the proprietor said he had a 1 bedroom “house” that he would rent to us for $85/month a few blocks away, on Fillmore St. I want to say it was between 10th and 11th streets, but i could be off a block in either direction. House is a generous description. The place was a shack, no larger than a medium sized toolshed you can buy nowadays at Home Depot for a couple of grand. We had to take the refrigerator outside for a bleach bath before we could use it, as the previous tenants had left a bunch of vegetables to rot while the electricity was turned off. The bathroom, surprisingly, contained a fabulous enameled claw-foot tub. The bathroom floor, however, wasn’t strong enough to support it, so, through several holes punched through the floor boards, the tub rested on stacked cinder blocks. We had a removable cassette deck in my van, and hooked it up to a spare car battery in the living room and played it through i don’t know what kind of speakers we could get for 3 bucks a pair.

Sometime around Christmas, possibly as late as the second week in January, i made the best purchase of my time in Arizona. A well used 9 inch cast iron skillet from the flea market, for 50 cents. After 45+ years, i think i’ve finally gotten it seasoned. It’s partner, a flat skillet that i inherited from a couple of roommates a few years later, also got packed up and sent to Ireland with the boxes that were intended to arrive here at the beginning of July, but which ended up sitting in a FedEx warehouse for over a month while various officials in both the company and Irish customs passed the buck back and forth for getting these things cleared and delivered.

Anyway, my cast iron, and a few other choice goods, arrived this week, and i couldn’t be happier. Might even make some corn bread soon.

Categories
Kitties Youghal

Kittehs of Youghal

We’ve only been back in Youghal for a month or two so I can’t be certain, but I suspect that most of the cats we see throughout town are housed, and not feral. There’s one black kitty we’ve seen on the Slob Bank a couple of times who may or may not be the same one in the picture with the blue fence. A lot of them are camera shy, darting away as soon as I raise the camera or phone to my face. And the overwhelming majority of cats in Youghal are black and white. I have a vision of 17th century pirates landing in Youghal with a shipful of black and white kittens who then adopted and colonized the town, and we’re seeing their many times great grandkitties when we go out and about.

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Categories
Uncategorized Youghal

. . . And, we’re back!

In Youghal, County Cork, to be precise.

Details to follow!

Categories
Covid-19

Greetings from Paris

A couple of towns over from Durham North Carolina is the mill village of Carrboro. (It may not be called that in the not-too-distant future, but that is a whole ‘nother story.) Sometime in the past few decades, Carrboro acquired the nickname The Paris of the Piedmont. I’ve only lived here for 27 years, so i have no idea how or why that should be the case. Maybe this story is even true.

I’ve spent quite a few days and nights in Carrboro, but i haven’t been out of the house other than to walk in the woods since we returned from Ireland and went more or less immediately into self-isolation. So this story isn’t about that Paris, although i expect to get there before i get to Paris, Texas.

In my early 20s, I read a description of the absinthe ritual as practiced in Paris in the 1800s. Might have been a Poe story. Might have been a biography of Rimbaud. But I thought that celebrating my 30th birthday by drinking absinthe on the Rive Gauche would be a pretty cool thing to do.

That opportunity passed, as did my 40th and 50th birthdays. By the time I turned 60, exorcising the demons of New Orleans seemed a better idea.

As we were planning our spring in Cork, I looked into a side trip to Paris, and it was surprisingly affordable. As it turns out, absinthe was illegal in France for much of that time, anyway. So yesterday I had plans to sit in a bar (not on the Seine, but near enough, and across the street from the Moulin Rouge) and celebrate another year by drinking absinthe.

We’re confined to our home in the woods in north Durham County for the next week, and i do not own an absinthe fountain, so I jury-rigged one. Absinthe fountain is somewhat of a misnomer. You pour the absinthe into the glass. What comes out of the fountain is ice water, and the purpose of the fountain is to precisely control the rate at which the water drips through the sugar cube into the glass.

On the left is the birthday card that Claire made for me.

The absinthe turned out all right, though I can only imagine it would have been better on the Boulevard de Clichy.

Best part of the day, though, was the reassurance i received from my granddaughter about getting to Paris some day. Maybe i’ll be able to bring her along, and we can visit the Washington Monument together.


Categories
Cork City Ireland

Some people we met

We had only ever planned to spend two months in Cork, so our social sphere was naturally going to be constricted. Our apartment complex above the Gate Cinema on North Main Street consisted of 16 or 18 one and two bedroom units. A couple of them showed evidence of children, but i think most were inhabited by singles. We were far and away the oldest. At a guess, i’d say the median age was maybe 30. We said hello to maybe a dozen different people over the 6 weeks, but only ever had lengthy conversations with Barna, from Zagreb, Croatia, who we would occasionally see practicing his juggling and firestick act on the shared rooftop space. We did not get a chance to say goodbye to him before we left the city.

Some of the first people we met were in response to a meet-up posting about a Science Fiction and Fantasy reading group. We were fortunate in that the book being read our first month was quite short, and we were both able to finish it within the week, and join in the discussion, which was lively and opinionated and smart. Thanks for making us feel welcome.

I only got the one very poor shot of the reading group. I had hoped to improve on it in March, but sadly no.

I think i wrote previously about our chance encounter at the Cork Arts Theatre production of The Parish, with a ticket holder who was trying to find a buyer for a pair of tickets that friends of hers couldn’t use. Theresa was very sweet, and one of several people who recommended that we stop in at the Montenotte hotel for sunset drinks. They were all on point.

We met a few shopkeepers and proprietors.

Barbara Hubert is, apparently, well known in bookbinding circles. She was kind enough to allow a picture, and we were able to duck back into the shop on our last day to pick up a couple of small gifts.

We ended up spending time in a few regular haunts. Tabletop Boardgame Cafe, right down the street from our apartment, was one. Chris, the owner, is an incredibly nice person, and took the time to explain the various games we tried out for the first time. His business is going to take a huge hit, so if you’re in Ireland and like games, maybe consider placing an order from his website? We really want to see him opened when we’re able to return.

The Silly Goose, about 6 or 7 blocks away from our apartment, became our local, especially on Liverpool match days. Barry, the cook, is a massive fan. If the season is voided, and Liverpool aren’t awarded the title this year, he’s going to be crushed.Again, incredibly nice people, and i hope they’re able to survive the ongoing lockdown.

Probably doing some bantz after a Liverpool goal

The folks over at iElectron, who repaired my busted camera lens gratis, were also very nice. Hailing from several different states that formerly made up Yugoslavia, we had several nice conversations about Tesla and history, and they were as appreciative of the donuts i brought on our next to last day as i was of the complementary repair. No pictures, though.

My friend Dave Tilley back in North Carolina is a disc jockey at WXDU, and a record producer. When i told him i was going to be in Cork this spring, he let me know about the singer-songwriter Lynda Cullen, who was playing at Coughlan’s, one of Cork’s premier small rooms. I am so glad i went to that show. Lynda is a delight, and i’m happy to call her a friend.

Despite it being early spring, which apparently means half hour rain squalls 8 times a day, except for the days when it rains continuously, and temperatures rarely getting above 6° C , there were a number of regular street musicians. This guy had an amazing voice, and i threw coins his way more than once on the way to or from the grocery store. Never did get the chance to talk to him, though, as a result of our hasty departure. Will he still be around if we’re able to return?

But the man whose company i think i enjoyed most during our several conversations was John Coffey, proprietor of Uneeda Books on Oliver Plunkett Street. Just a lovely man. I want to be like that when i grow up.

Categories
Ireland Science Fiction

Seveneves

One of the more enjoyable things we did in Cork was join a science fiction/fantasy reading group. In February, we read the literary SF novella This Is How You Lose The Time War. It reminded me of nothing so much as the experimental early 70s fiction of Josephine Saxton or Carol Emshwiller, a well i have not dipped into in too many years. The story concerns soldiers from two different cultures, Red and Blue, one gardeners, the other mechanics, who are battling throughout history creating alternate timelines in the hope that, as Feynman might have understood, the sum over histories will favor one over the other.

Not everyone’s cup of tea, but that’s OK. It is, supposedly, being prepped for a TV series, and whether it translates or not, well, we’ll see. It’ll need a lot of Doctor Who type elements to make it work effectively.

For March, the group decided to read Neal Stephenson’s massive 900 page 2015 novel Seveneves. As it turns out, we’re not meeting in March. But i read this thing, and i had a lot of reactions to it, and given who i am, i’m going to share them here. Because, man, it was a lot of effort to get through this book.

There will be spoilers. You have been warned.

For starters, let me say that this sort of “hard” SF is not my personal favorite sub-genre. But i am neither averse toward good examples of it, nor ignorant of its history. I read The Foundation Trilogy in my teen years. My Heinlein collection spans almost a foot on my bookshelf. I’ve read Joe Haldeman, and Arthur C. Clarke. Larry Niven. Stephen Baxter. More contemporaneously, i’ve enjoyed Kim Stanley Robinson’s Mars Trilogy, Paolo Baccigaluppi’s Wind-Up Girl, and Cixin Liu’s Three Body Problem. I’ve even read Stephenson before, though i won’t say that Snow Crash was one of my favorite reads.

This book, though, was a turd. No exaggeration to say that it is one of the worst books i’ve ever picked up, from its abhorrent concept, through its ignorance of any science (linguistics, sociology, archeology) that is not orbital mechanics, through its author’s disdain for his craft. It is an utter waste of time and paper.

Briefly, an “Agent” passes through the Moon, causing it to split into 7 large, asymmetrically divided, pieces. The “Agent” is never identified, but the most reasonable hypothesis is a micro-sized black hole. It doesn’t really matter, because once the orbital mechanics of the 7 pieces are calculated, the Neal deGrasse Tyson lookalike character in the novel figures out that the resulting collisions among the 7 pieces, and the fragments they will create, will turn into a “hard Rain” in about 24-30 months, which will drop into the greatest meteor shower ever seen on the earth, raising the surface temperature to 500° F and incinerating all life, including the microscopic and sea life, as the oceans are boiled off.

Being the intelligent, foresightful creatures that evolution has shaped us to be, the smartest, best equipped to survive and repopulate the earth segment of the human population, are sent into low earth orbit on board an expanded International Space Station (called Izzy in the future because nothing defines humanity so much as our ability to give things cute names). But because Hillary Clinton has won the 2016 election and is now the most powerful person on the planet, there is also a program in place to randomly select representatives of every planet and culture on earth to join these more qualified folks in orbit, and make sure the new earth to be born out of the ashes of the old gives equal weight to all cultures, and Stephenson’s disdain for the notion that, yeah, all cultures are equal, and none are intrinsically superior to any others, could hardly be more palpable. (It’s not “actually” Hillary Clinton in office, any more than “Doob” Dubois is “actually” Neal deGrasse Tyson, or Sean Probst is “actually” Elon Musk, but you’d have to be an idiot not to see what Stephenson is doing with these characters.

Of course, the program to choose these “multicultural” representatives is the most cynical thing ever constructed, and most of the candidates chosen this way are sent immediately to their deaths, and those that aren’t are shuttered off into portions of this orbital sanctuary that are not going to protect them from the dangers of space, because politicians, especially liberal politicians, don’t really care about people, just about perpetuating their own hold on power. So it’s no surprise when Hillary Clinton violates all protocols and laws and manages to get herself inserted onto the last orbital vehicle leaving the earth and onto the space station. Where, and you’re not going to believe this, she consolidates “political” power against the scientists who are only making the most rational decision about who should live and who should die, and the most statistically correct decisions about which parts of the space station should be protected against cosmic rays and accidental collisions.

As it turns out (and it’s not an accident that i use this phrase, and we’ll get to that in a bit) those decisions turn out to be wrong, but it’s not their fault, and they definitely should be allowed to continue to hold decision making power because democracy is bullshit and only technocrats removed from the people can make correct decisions, and all of the genetic material sent up to space to help perpetuate the human race is destroyed in the first week after life on earth is wiped out, and Jesus H. Christ how are we going to reseed the planet in the future now?

Well, the technocrats come up with one plan, and the humanists come up with another plan, but of course the humanist plan doesn’t allow for the dangers of space (at least the ones we follow; there’s another, break-away group which supposedly leaves to go and try and colonize Mars, and although we’re supposed to assume they died in the effort, Stephenson never really follows up on what happens to them, so maybe they’ll pop up, deus ex-machina style, in the sequel, not unlike two groups do in the last 75 pages of this book.

Anyway, about 2/3 of the way through this book, everybody on earth is dead. Virtually everybody on the satellite who was sent up to save the human race from extinction is dead. Except for 8 people. Who are all women. (All of the men are dead, having heroically sacrificed their lives in order to give the others a fighting chance. Because that’s what men do, right?) And one of the women is too old to bear children. So that leaves seven women to create the new human race, and by god, they’ll be known as the Seven Eves.

Did i mention Seven Eves is a palindrome? A palindrome is a sentence, group of letters, or numbers, that can be read forward or backwards, exactly the same. Perhaps the most famous example of a palindrome is ‘A Man, A Plan, A Canal, Panama.” Do you see how if you start from the beginning or the end, it can be read the same? Palindromes are actually totally devoid of any literary or cultural significance, other than that they’re cool. They’re as cool as fezzes to Matt Smith’s Doctor Who. Matt Smith, of course, was not as good as David Tennant, but he was charming in his own way. And the Vincent Van Gogh episode was particularly a classic. But Smith was definitely a cut above Peter Capaldi, yeah? And Karen Gillan, even though she was a bit of a waif at the beginning, was definitely hotter than Jenna Coleman, who, while not without her charms, lacked a certain quirkiness that we’ve come to expect in the Doctor’s companions. But of course, Billie Piper had been the best of the revived Doctor’s companions without question. She had been selected for some reason which no one now could remember, but maybe being blond had something to do with it. But her performance had been collectively seen as the best, and she had been recognized by all of Whodom as the ideal companion for all the others to strive for.

Where was I?

Oh, yeah, so now, we’re 2/3 of the way through the book, and everybody is dead except for these 8 women, only 7 of whom can bear children, who will be called on to re-populate the human race. By sheer coincidence of the necessity of the plot (because it is here that Stephenson’s real game become apparent, and it is even more hideous than you can imagine) these 7 women represent 7 different cultural and ethnic groups from what will henceforth be know as “Old Earth.” Because, over the next 5000 years, nothing about language will change for anybody who speaks it thanks to the magic of digital recording, except when it’s necessary for specific things to happen in the plot. Thankfully for the future of the human race, one of the 7 is a master manipulator of genes. She’ll be able to, with some modicum of success, create Y chromosomes within a generation or two of the womb creation portion of the program. And then, if we’re lucky, sexual reproduction and sharing of genes will create a heterogeneous population best suited for survival on a future terraformed planet.

Oh again, that’s not Stephenson’s game. See, as it turns out, what Stephenson is really trying to do is create an environment in which the disgraced science of The Bell Curve might actually be applicable. And these seven Eves are given the ability to choose which traits they want their offspring to possess. And one of them, i swear to god, want her offspring to be imbued with the exclusively masculine trait of “heroism.” And so the descendants of these seven Eves basically only make babies with others of their “race”, which should end up with seven pretty much inbred and useless groups of people, but that would defeat Stephenson’s purpose, which is to demonstrate the “scientific” basis for racism.

Because the final third of the novel takes place “Five thousand years in the future.” Which happens to be the time that the earth’s surface has stabilized enough for the re-terraforming efforts to be achieving some success, and colonies from the 3 billion descendants of the seven Eves to start resettling the planet. It was obviously easier to title a subsection of the book “Five thousand years later” than it was to tell any stories about what might have actually happened during that time. Or to figure out how humanity, which took approximately a quarter of a million years to expand it’s population to a billion the first time around could, on a bunch of artificial satellites, have achieved that sort of population growth in one fiftieth of the time on this go round. (Yeah, it’s true, humanity went from 1 billion to 3 billion in a century or less. But the first billion is the hardest.) And oh, did i mention, it wasn’t really “seven” Eves, it was more like 6 1/2, as one of them was about 50 years old, and only had enough time for one child before menopause. Oh, and really it was 6, because one of the others tried a number of genetic manipulations which were unsuccessful, and all of her offspring died, except for 1.

But anyway, 5 thousand years in the future, when there’s 3 billion people, who all are members of distinct “races” with distinct social and psychological and physical characteristics, and everybody’s actions and attitudes can be predicted by knowing which Eve they are descended from, all shit breaks loose, when it turns out there are not one but two groups of descendants of humans who have survived on the actual surface of the planet, one underground, who are actually cousins of one of the Eves, whose father was a miner and who was a real self-sufficient American man who figured out a way to hold a culture together underground, and one underwater because apparently although the seas boiled off during the Hard Rain, they didn’t actually boil all the way off, and these submarines, which were the same ones used to nuke Venezuela under Hillary Clinton’s order (remember there was a character based on Hillary Clinton? You won’t believe what happens to her after she lies and schemes to get on the satellite and foments a democratic overthrow of the rational technocrats) and whoa, you won’t believe that there’s a whole race descended from Hillary Clinton, and man are they just horrible people.

But this shit isn’t even the worst part of the book.

No, i’m kidding, the attempt to write a 900 page justification for racism is the worst part of the book.

But there are others that come close.

Moby Dick is widely considered to be the first Great American Novel. One of its defining characteristics is just how little of the text is devoted to advancing the narrative of Ishmael, signed up as a crewman aboard the Pequod under the command of the insane Captain Ahab, whose obsession with tracking down and killing the whale who took his leg and his previous command drives the novel. But we also get Melville’s almost encyclopedic knowledge of everything about the practice of whaling, entire chapters devoted to descriptions of the harpoons and their functions, the rendering engines, the winches that tie the dead whales to the boats in order to extract the oil to be rendered, the wood on the deck, the social structures of Nantucket Island, basically everything necessary to run a nineteenth century and understand the relationships that exist therein. It’s the kind of distraction from the plot that Tom Robbins excels at, and also Thomas Pynchon. It’s the kind of thing about which that book reviewers will often say, “Robbins skillfully navigates the Scylla and Charybdis of exposition and info-dump that in the hands of a lesser writer would render the text into a 900 page boat anchor.”

Friends, Neal Stephenson is that lesser writer.

His info-dumps are pedantic, repetitive, and almost singularly focused on orbital mechanics. I’m sure he gets that right. In fact, i remember most of them from Frank Reynolds’ coverage of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo missions of the 1960s. But Stephenson uses a lot more words to convey the same information. It’s practically a paean to mansplaining. And all told in the passive voice.

But, then, he passes several opportunities where a little exposition would be wonderful.

I read the 2016 Borough Press trade paper edition, so that’s where the page numbers come from.

On page 191, Doob (aka Neal deGrasse Tyson) is in Bhutan to help select and congratulate the two young people who have been chosen to carry that particular culture into the future. Here’s the quote: “The King drove him up the mountain in his personal Land Rover, Doob riding shotgun in the passenger seat on the left—for Bhutan, as it turned out, was a drive-on-the-left country.”

As it turned out?

Seriously? As it fucking turned out?

There are reasons why one country uses the drive on the left system, and another country uses the drive on the right system. It’s not the result of a coin flip. There wasn’t a game of Ro-Sham-Bo 2500 years ago which determined whether chariots would pass each other on the right or the left. There’s a knowable history behind which countries practice one system or the other.

But describing that history, because it delves into imperialism, military conquest, and some of the less palatable aspects of western civilization, has no place in Stephenson’s game; which though he takes great pains to hide, is nothing less than the rationalization of racism as a legitimate foundation of culture.

Oddly enough, when i researched the history of Bhutan for this essay, i learned that the various Buddhist nations of Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, and their sub-kingdoms and fiefdoms, spent as much of their past in military adventurism against each other as the Europeans over the past 1500 years, or the Biblical tribes of Israel and their neighbors. But that the Bhutanese alliances with the British in the 18th and 19th centuries would likely explain how, as it turned out, the Bhutanese, like the Irish and the Australians, drive on the left. It would certainly have been worth a couple of paragraphs for Stephenson to go down that, um, road. I mean, with 900 pages, he had some to spare.

There’s no shortage of language, whole paragraphs of it in fact, that have the effect of stopping the reader dead in their tracks. And not in a good way. About 8 years ago, i read Gene Wolfe’s “Peace.” About 2/3 of the way through the book, there’s a scene where two people are driving through a rainstorm in a 1940s sedan. Wolfe writes “The wipers sponged generations of raindrops from the windshield as she spoke.” I hit that sentence, and had to put the book down, it was so beautiful. I spent an hour just contemplating the imagery of “generations of raindrops.” I wrote a FB post about how good it was.

Last year, i reread Peace. And while reading it, i honestly forgot about my previous reading. It was a new book to me. Until i hit that sentence, and it knocked me out again. And when that happened, i thought, didn’t i write something about this before? And i looked, and found my years old FB post. That’s the power of someone who cares about the craft of writing.

I hit the sentence “Forward the ice flowed,” in Seveneves, and i had to put the book down. For precisely the opposite reason as the Wolfe.

This was possibly the single ugliest sentence i have ever read in a novel.

If you want to tell the reader that a particular chunk of ice moved in a particular direction, you can write “The ice flowed forward,” and it accomplishes your goal perfectly. If you want to tell the reader that a particular chunk of ice moved in a particular direction, and that direction is significant, you can write “The ice flowed, forward,” and it still gets the job done, perfectly.

If you want to tell the reader that a particular chunk of ice moved in a particular direction, and that you understand somewhat how the cadences of language can make a sentence more or less pleasurable you can write “Forward flowed the ice,” and while it’s less elegant than the previous examples, at least forward is modifying the word that follows it. The sentence actually moves in a direction that reflects the action.

If you want to tell the reader that a particular chunk of ice moved in a particular direction, and that you really want to call attention to the fact that you are trying to impress people with your showy language skills that really aren’t very skillful, you can write “Forward the ice flowed,” and you will accomplish that effectively.

Man, i had to walk away from this book for a day after slamming into that brick wall.

Unbelievably, there’s more. Stephenson will write entire paragraphs that take up multiple pages of exposition that consist of a dozen or more sentences all containing the same “There had been an effort to determine which of the members of the crew should do such and such. And as a result there had been a decision made that resulted in other decisions being made, which had been required to make a decision that no decisions would be made,” construction. That’s bad enough. But then, in the last third of the book, he ascribes the ability to use this exact same “passive voice” construction to one of the seven races of his survivors, in a very deprecatory way. Something along the lines of: “Like all members of her race, she was skilled in using the passive voice to deflect any notion of responsibility for a decision that they had, in fact, consciously taken.” And his inability to recognize his own guilt, and the bias he brings to assigning favor and discredit to the various races and factions he supports or tries to discredit, is appalling.

At one point in the final section, he has one of his characters recognize that she is engaging in what he quaintly refers to as “The Old Racism.” Of course, she’s a descendant of the Black Eve, and she’s feeling prejudice towards one of the descendants of one of the white Eves. But despite describing Every. Single. Character. in the last third of the book by their racial characteristics, not only physical manifestations but also psychological predilections, aptitudes and intelligences, Stephenson is either in denial, or, rather more incredibly, ignorant of the racism he is bringing into play. The number of times he frames a character description with some variation of “As a member of this race, so and so was naturally inclined to believe such and such,” was beyond my count. About the only good thing you can say is that Stephenson’s racism is actually not as malign as his misogyny. He literally has one of his Eves make the conscious, verbal decision, during the end of the second part of the book where the seven Eves are going to determine which characteristics they want to pass on to their descendants (and because they are all women, there’s no possibility that any of them will consider any form of cooperation to benefit the whole group, just what they can do to privilege their own descendants against the other races) that she will give her descendants the masculine trait of “heroism.” And i wanted to gouge my eyeballs out.

No, i wanted to gouge Stephenson’s eyeballs out.

In short, this book sucked ass. Though i’d lay even money it’s Jordan Peterson’s favorite SF novel of the last generation.

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Cork City Ireland

Fare well, Cork

Thanks for everything, including this final sunrise. Happy trails to you, until we meet again.

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Uncategorized

Travel Restrictions Update

Following on from Trump’s announcement last night, we’ve decided that cutting our trip short and returning to the US is our best option. We are rebooking our flight home, and should be there early next week. We are saddened by this, especially missing out on Paris and Portugal, but it appears, right now, to be the wisest choice.

More updates to follow as warranted. Take care of each other out there.

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