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Covid-19

Greetings from Paris

A couple of towns over from Durham North Carolina is the mill village of Carrboro. (It may not be called that in the not-too-distant future, but that is a whole ‘nother story.) Sometime in the past few decades, Carrboro acquired the nickname The Paris of the Piedmont. I’ve only lived here for 27 years, so i have no idea how or why that should be the case. Maybe this story is even true.

I’ve spent quite a few days and nights in Carrboro, but i haven’t been out of the house other than to walk in the woods since we returned from Ireland and went more or less immediately into self-isolation. So this story isn’t about that Paris, although i expect to get there before i get to Paris, Texas.

In my early 20s, I read a description of the absinthe ritual as practiced in Paris in the 1800s. Might have been a Poe story. Might have been a biography of Rimbaud. But I thought that celebrating my 30th birthday by drinking absinthe on the Rive Gauche would be a pretty cool thing to do.

That opportunity passed, as did my 40th and 50th birthdays. By the time I turned 60, exorcising the demons of New Orleans seemed a better idea.

As we were planning our spring in Cork, I looked into a side trip to Paris, and it was surprisingly affordable. As it turns out, absinthe was illegal in France for much of that time, anyway. So yesterday I had plans to sit in a bar (not on the Seine, but near enough, and across the street from the Moulin Rouge) and celebrate another year by drinking absinthe.

We’re confined to our home in the woods in north Durham County for the next week, and i do not own an absinthe fountain, so I jury-rigged one. Absinthe fountain is somewhat of a misnomer. You pour the absinthe into the glass. What comes out of the fountain is ice water, and the purpose of the fountain is to precisely control the rate at which the water drips through the sugar cube into the glass.

On the left is the birthday card that Claire made for me.

The absinthe turned out all right, though I can only imagine it would have been better on the Boulevard de Clichy.

Best part of the day, though, was the reassurance i received from my granddaughter about getting to Paris some day. Maybe i’ll be able to bring her along, and we can visit the Washington Monument together.


Categories
Buses Covid-19 Ireland Youghal

Youghal, and an update

The Covid-19 situation remains fluid. As of last night, there are 34 confirmed cases in Ireland (population just under 5 million), and an additional 16 in Northern Ireland (population 1.8 million). Nearly 1800 people have been tested in the Republic. Authorities are still urging calm, and saying that closing schools and public transport remains unnecessary at this time. France, our next potential destination, has around 1800 confirmed cases (population 65 million), or roughly 5 times the infection rate of Ireland. They are expected to escalate their response to Level 3, which will involve closing most public transport. At that point, we expect our trip to be canceled for us by the airline.

Portugal remains relatively unaffected, with 41 total infections recorded out of a population of roughly 10 million. Travel to and from Italy has been suspended pretty much everywhere, as well as travel within the country. Spain is canceling most public events and large gatherings. Our itinerary puts us in Portugal and Spain between 5 April and 22 April, so we are keeping close tabs on both of those. We have confirmed that we can pick up our rental car from Cork to Dublin at an hour’s notice (currently we’re planning on making that drive between 1 April and 4 April), and that we can change our flight back to the US at no cost. So, if we decide in the next few weeks that it’s time to get out of Dodge, and ride this out in the comfort of our own home, we can do that in basically 24 hours.

Once again, our thanks to all of you who have expressed concern over our well-being. We are somewhat stressed, possibly inconvenienced and disappointed, and likely out some money. But we think our risk of catching this virus remains relatively low (my personal assessment is that it is no greater here than in the States), and there are far many people in much worse shape than we are.

Back to our travels!

Today is the midpoint of our planned trip. Yesterday we took the bus to the coastal community of Youghal. On our 2017 trip to Ireland, we passed through this town on our way between Waterford and Cork, and spent a couple of hours walking around. It was high on our list of places to return to.

We misread the bus schedule, and thought there was only one stop in the town, so we inadvertently got off 2 km from the town center. That turned out to be fortuitous, as we found ourselves at probably the nicest beach in the Republic. It was cold and windy, but gorgeous. And at low tide, flat and sandy.

I didn’t take my shoes off, but i did dip my hands into the Atlantic Ocean for the first time this year.

While some of the beach features are clearly man-made erosion control, there are some fascinating rock formations as well.

This little memorial would be called “Brandy” if it were in the States.

The story of the Youghal lighthouse is pretty cool. There’s been a light on this site for pretty near a millenium. A couple of hundred years ago, some town leaders thought it would make sense to move the light to an island a mile or so offshore. Construction got about halfway through, when the faction arguing that the light should remain in its traditional location returned to power, and the island project was abandoned. You can see the island in the second picture above, although at blog resolution i don’t think you can make out the light. It’s now a bird sanctuary. A new lighthouse was completed on the original site in 1852.

The village green reminded of nothing so much as the Willoughby epsiode of the Twilight Zone.

At the entrance to the green is a statue memorializing 4 men killed by British troops in the town in 1798. As i’ve mentioned previously, i’ve had a couple of conversations with people here about Confederate statues back home. (All initiated by locals. I’m doing my best to avoid politics on this trip). They have all made the “history” argument that removing memorials to the Confederacy violates “history.” The responding argument, of course is simple: where are the memorials to the British governors of Ireland who ordered these executions? They don’t exist, nor should they, because although they are clearly a part of history, their actions are not those we want to commemorate. The Confederacy is the same.

We walked about the town for a while, ate a fantastic lunch at McCarthy’s, in the Old Imperial Hotel, and otherwise enjoyed the relatively benign weather. Definitely high up on the list of places we’d consider living in.

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